Monday, 22 September 2014

Return to Hamelin, and the Eder and Möhne Dams (Part 2)


Part 2 has taken an effort to complete!
The caravan has been in the UK all year.
But we have still done our share of travelling around Europe and North America - without the caravan
- and around the UK, with the caravan.
And every new place seems to give us less free time.

But that’s not a bad thing.
It’s good to be busy without thinking about work.

As I wrote in Part 1 of this post, while we were in Germany, Gail and I also visited some of the destinations I remember from my childhood in Detmold.
Towns like Hamelin, and also the Möhne and Eder lakes and dams, were some of the places to go for a day trip.

Part 1 was all about Hamelin – Part 2 covers our visits to the Möhnesee and Edersee, and the famous dams.

The broad plan was to do as I had done as a child and, from Detmold, have a day trip to the Möhne dam and then a second day trip to the Eder dam.
But looking at the map, and thinking of the goal of getting South, and ultimately to Croatia, we firstly travelled with the caravan 50 miles South to Brilon.
From there the Möhnesee is 25 miles to the West, and the Edersee 40 miles to the South East.

Our first day trip from Brilon was to the Edersee.
It is a very pretty and large reservoir, surrounded by wooded hills.
It was this aspect that made the bombing of the dams in May 1943, such a challenge to the so-called Dambusters.
Although I remember visiting in the 60’s, the dam then was not such a visitor attraction.
I am thinking back 55 years.
Of course in 1960 it was just 15 years after the end of the Second World War, so it is easy to understand that wartime events associated with such constructions would rather be forgotten or avoided.
Today there is a gift shop and a museum,
and the lake is used for boating and boat trips.
We didn’t visit the museum,
but the advertising board clearly acknowledges the raid on the dam.



As we started to go away from the Eder dam to head back to Brilon, although stopping is prohibited, as it was quiet I quickly stopped to take a quick photo. 
Some weeks later back in the UK, I found an old photo mum must have taken of us all those years ago.
Parking restrictions must have been non-existent, and cars few enough to allow three young children to pose for the photo.
There are a few more trees around now!
This was just a mile away from Edersee – clearly an indication of modern day tourism!







. . . And a reminder of the days of greater NATO presence in Germany.
The following day we headed for Möhnesee. Approaching the reservoir there are many villages and small towns, with buildings that appear fairly recent. I don’t remember much around there on our day trips in the early 60’s. But at the reservoir itself, the scenery seems fairly unchanged.

You can stand fairly close to the foot of the dam, and I remember dad pointing out where the brickwork had been repaired following the bombing. Fifty years on the brickwork has weathered, with no sign of that night in 1943.

Unlike the Eder dam, there is no gift shop or museum, but there are a few information boards.




After walking across the dam and back, we decided to have a drink in the bar near the dam. 














This was there in the 1960’s, and in fact was the Seehof hotel in 1943. 
The owners have provided quite an information display about the hotel history, and the night of the bombing.







It must have been quite a shocking night for anyone there in May 1943.









On this visit my knowledge of the detail of the bombings had been increased by documentaries about the 60th anniversary of the raids in May 1943, together with reruns of the “Dambusters” movie. Visiting the dams once again, made me realise how many people actually lost their lives – 1200 at Möhnesee – mainly civilians, including prisoners of war. 

This was in addition to the RAF planes and men lost attacking the targets. The unanswered question from a strategic viewpoint is why it was decided not to disrupt the rebuilding work, with the Möhne dam operational again a year later.

Today I realise that dad had joined the Royal Navy probably aged just 15, and just after the end of the Second World War. While in Germany, he was a small part of the Cold War defence against the Eastern Bloc. At the age of 9 the realisation and understanding of war was a long way from my mind, and even more so to sister Lynda and brother Adrian.

The visit to the Möhnesee and the Edersee again brought back happy memories of a happy childhood. But it was tinged with sadness of the wartime events of 60 years ago, which I had no real knowledge of as a child.

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